Reader Update: Painted Fireplace & Amityville Horror Windows

Remember Lisa?  Back in November she told us she was plagued by a dark brick fireplace, uninspired honey oak trim, wall-to-wall carpet that had seen better days and out of place Amityville Horror windows (her description, not mine!)

 
We all agreed she should get busy painting her brick fireplace a clean, crisp white.  I went on to recommend she paint all her honey oak trim white, install some hardwood floors and build out some bookcases under each window to anchor the whole wall and negate the "floating window" thing she had going on. 

Lisa just emailed me photos of her progress and WOW!  Amazing what some white paint will do right?

From Lisa:

The white is Benjamin Moore Navajo White.  It’s “white,” but definitely a little creamy in my darker room.  I put one coat of paint on the brick and realized I would have 8 coats in and would never get it covered.  That brick just soaked it up.  Back to store and the experts gave me primer.  One coat of that and 2 coats of paint and I have a beautiful, warm, creamy brick fireplace.  And I LOVE it.

 

A few weeks later, we ordered cherry hardwood floors.  FABULOUS.  I can’t articulate enough how great they look.  I am in love.  While those were being installed, I primed the baseboards and painted them in the same BM paint. 

 

I also primed the weird windows.  Once I did, I kind of liked them in the lighter color.  So I painted them the same Navajo White and I’m really pleased.  They are certainly still noticeable, but for some reason they don’t look so out of place. 

 

Next on Lisa's to-do list are bookcases to flank the fireplace.  But shes' stumped by how to deal with this very shallow fireplace and the idea that her shelves would extend past it.   I'm going to guess that these bricks are just standard size so that would mean that Lisa has approx 3.75" of depth to work with here. 

This is an interesting dilemma.  Historic bungalows have fireplaces with deeper recesses on either side so building out to get a totally flush look isn't an issue.

The standard depth on most bookcases is 8-12".  In my opinion, anything deeper just results in dead space behind books & accessories - AKA dust territory.   So while I agree that having shelves that stick out past your fireplace surround aren't ideal, I think it's a necessary trade off in order to have functional shelf space (a 4" deep shelf is not functional in my book.)

Here's an example of a bungalow layout where the bottom shelves stick out past the fireplace.

This isn't a traditional bungalow but you can see what having shelves come out past the fireplace might look like.

If you absolutely can't deal with the shelves sticking out, you could add additional trim and mill work to the fireplace surround and build it up.  I don't think you'll get 8" out of it but you could get close like in this image. 

My last piece of advice - as long as you keep the shelves from bumping out past the fireplace hearth, you'll be fine! 

P.S. I love that lamp!  ...But please put a drum shade on it ;-)  Sorry Lisa, I couldn't resist!

If you have a question or design dilemma irking you, drop me an email at honeyandfitz (at) yahoo (dot) com.  I love a challenge and I love searching out pictures to help inspire you to tackle the issue and make your space the best it can be.

Can you use contact paper as wallpaper?

I got an email from a reader, Erin recently asking this very question.  You know I love me some contact paper so I'm intrigued by the idea. Erin's been around the web and back looking for examples of walls successfully "papered" using contact paper as a low cost alternative to wall paper. 

What's prompting such an idea?   A huge score of black and white toile contact paper at her local Dollar Store.  At $1 she quickly picked up 20 rolls. 

Toile Contact Paper available via eBay

Now we know she could do something like this.

Or even this...

But could she do THIS!?

Lauren's Breakfast Nook via Pure Home Style

Erin's hoping to combine it with some wainscotting so at the very least, the contact paper would be installed up high and away from curious, peel-happy little fingers. 

My experience with putting contact paper on dry wall is that it will stay up very well after you spend some time smoothing it down and working out any air bubbles.  My first reaction was to tell her to test a piece but I'm certain it will work for at least a few months so that doesn't exactly help her.  But long term (as in years) I'm just not sure.  

So I told Erin I'd put the call out to all you creative and fearless readers.  Has anyone done anything like this?  Any words or advice or caution for Erin?  If this works....OH THE POSSIBILITIES!! 

Reader Question: Can I Mix Trim Colors?

It's time for another reader question!  Today I'm tackling Erin's question about trim colors.  She and her boyfriend are in the process of buying a home (yay!) and her future abode is sporting lots and lots of not-so-chic oak trim.  Here's the picture of her space and her dilemma:

All the trim in this house is oak.  I want to update it and paint it white but I also love the look of black trim, especially on windows and doors.  We have sliding French doors on the back of the house that I really want black.  But I want the rest of the trim to be white. Would it look okay to mix and match the two???

Mixing trim colors can be tricky.  Similar to open floor plan homes, it can be difficult to know where to end one color and start another.  But that shouldn't stop you from experimenting with trim colors in self contained rooms especially if you've got some really fabulous trim that could use highlighting.  

{via Apartment Therapy & MixandChic}

 

As far as I'm concerned, Erin's situation is very clear cut - paint all that trim white and paint the doors BUT NOT THE CASINGS black.  The casing is what actually meets up with the trim so by leaving them white you create a seamless look with the rest of the white trim but still get the drama and impact of a gorgeous black door.

It can look REALLY amazing, especially when there are hints of black throughout the room.  See...

 

 

 

It also doesn't have to be black.  Here the windows and doors are a pretty gray while the rest of the trim and casings are white. 

Here's the opposite effect - painting all the trim AND casings black.  I'm not as big a fan of this look.  Bold, yes...but it feels like someone went over the windows with a big, fat Sharpie or something.

This same thing can apply to windows - white trim, white casings, black window.

Some simple Photoshop work gives you an idea of what Erin's back wall will look like with white trim and black doors. 

 

So Erin I say paint away!  Those French doors are so fabulous, they will totally transform the space once they're black and immediately draw your eye outside. 

If you have a question or design dilemma irking you, drop me an email at honeyandfitz (at) yahoo (dot) com.  I love a challenge and I love searching out pictures to help inspire you to tackle the issue and make your space the best it can be.

Reader Question: Help me find this!

Today's reader question isn't a design dilemma but rather a look for less hunt!  I got an email recently from reader Aileen asking for some helping tracking down a piece she'd fallen in love with...minus the price.  Boy have I been there!

From Aileen:

I was hoping you might be able to help me find this nightstand! I am looking for a more affordable version and it does not need to have chrome legs.

 

X Nightstand from Phyllis Morris

There's no price specified on the site Aileen provided so I'm not exactly sure how she's defining affordable.  

{UPDATE: I heard from Aileen over on Facebook and she said her original Phyllis Morris nightstands are $4,000+!!!!}

This is a pretty distinctive Hollywood Regency/Milo Baughman style and I was intrigued to see if I could track down anything similar.  Here's what I came up with.

Hudson Side Table from William Sonoma Home - $895

Pretty great match minus the orientation of the legs.  $895 is not exactly what I'd call "affordable" for a nightstand but maybe it's less than Aileen's designer crush?

X Base Accent Nightstand from Home Gallery Stores - $250

I think this next find is a great match, particularly because Aileen isn't so concerned with matching the chrome legs.  A few coats of high gloss white paint would really transform this piece and make it modern and sleek.

That was as close as I could get for Aileen.  Anyone else come across anything similar?

Reader Question: To Paint or Not to Paint (a brick fireplace & wood trim)

It's time for another reader question!  Today I'm tackling Lisa's family room and the age old design question - to paint or not to paint.  It's the cheapest, most transformative thing you can do to a room but sometimes painting things like brick and wood trim can leave us (and our spouses!) second guessing ourselves.  Lisa has a few things she's considering changing about the space.  Here's what she wrote:

With 2 young kids and a black lab, the carpet in this room needs to go.  I would like to do hardwood, but as you can see in the photos, all of our woodwork is a honey colored oak.  Do we take the plunge and pick a hardwood we like and paint the woodwork?  Or work with the woodwork as is??

The fireplace is a floor to ceiling ugly dark red brick with even uglier gray grout.  The mantel is a large piece of oak wood that I’m not sure we can remove due to the fact that it’s significant in size and seems to be permanently adhered to the brick.  I have considered painting the brick (gasp), but I know how some people feel about painting brick. 

Finally the elephant in the room.....those Amityville Horror/stop sign shaped windows.  They really don’t bring in much light and we have french doors on an adjoining wall leading to the outside that I believe brings in an adequate amount of light. I have no idea why someone would install those in the first place and what to do with them now.

Phew, this is a doozy!  But I do love a good challenge so let's take this one step at a time...

Flooring
Hardwood floors can be a considerable investment and it will completely transform the feel of this room.  I would hate to see Lisa spend money on a wood floor selection she doesn't love just because it matches the existing honey colored trim that she ALSO doesn't love.  So my verdict is paint out that oak trim and get busy picking out a floor you love.  There are so many great engineered hardwoods now.  I LOVE this handscraped wide plank style from Lumber Liquidators.  How beautiful is this?

Virginia Mill Works 5" Potomac Plank Handscraped from Lumber Liquidators $3.89/ sq ft

Look how great it looks with white trim and a wall color almost exactly like Lisa's existing walls!

Fireplace
The idea of painting a brick fireplace can seem daunting but it's actually quite simple.  The wonderful DIY duo of John and Sherry over at Young House Love have a great tutorial on how to tackle painting a brick fireplace (they've done it twice now!)  A fresh coat of white will take that standard, boring (no offense Lisa!) fireplace to a whole new level.  It will look bright and modern and clean and will really pop off the gorgeous new dark wood floors.  Here are some of my favorite before and after painted fireplaces to inspire you.

 

Painted Fireplace from Domino

   

Before/After Painted Fireplace from Modern Maizy

After you paint out the brick, take a step back and assess whether you want to paint the mantel as well.  I'm a fan of both looks - wood toned mantel on white brick or white mantel on white brick. 

Brick painted fireplace from A la Mode Maven

I think in the case of Lisa's room I would paint the mantel white and then distress the edges a bit.  Just enough to make it look like it's an older piece of wood with some age and character.  Then I'd find two vintage wood corbels from an architectural salvage yard and mount them under each side of the mantel.   It's a low cost way to elevate the overall design of the mantel and make it look like the focal point it should be.

Antique Wood Corbels from Etsy

Windows

Now for my favorite part of Lisa's questions - the "Amityville Horror windows".  What a great description Lisa!  Yes, not every room is blessed with gorgeous architectural details and things like funny shaped windows can leave us scratching our heads.  

Here is a rule of thumb: 

Want to make an architectural feature stand out?  Paint it a high contrast color.

High contrast trim makes these gorgeous windows stand out at Project Nursery

Want to make an architectural feature less noticeable?  Paint it the same color as the walls surrounding it.

 

The absence of contrast between the window trim and walls from Houzz

Below I've photoshopped the trim around one of the window's in the same color as the wall.  Now I am not claiming this will cause the windows to disappear altogether (sorry Lisa, only a sledgehammer will do that!) but it will cause them to recede visually and be less noticeable. 

With this less desirable architecture "erased", why not take the opportunity to create some architectural interest you actually like? I love the idea of building some bookcases below the windows on either side of the fireplace like below (picture the windows in place of circular art).

 

We can all use more storage and I think the addition of these bookshelves really adds some presence to this family room wall.

What do you think?  Would you suggest something different for Lisa?  And aren't you dying to see how this room gets transformed?  Please, please, please share photos of what you end up doing Lisa!

If you have a question or design dilemma irking you, drop me an email at honeyandfitz (at) yahoo (dot) com.  I love a challenge and I love searching out pictures to help inspire you to tackle the issue and make your space the best it can be.

Reader Question: Blinds for a Very Wide Window

I got an email recently from a reader Emily with a design dilemma.  Here's what she wrote:

I have a dilemma with my family room window.  It is massively wide (105"!) and I really like the look of a bamboo blind layered with curtains, but I have no idea how to make the 'look' work for my window.  I can't seem to find anyone that makes a 105" bamboo blind and am not sure if I should try to do 3 blinds or maybe I should try an entirely different look altogether.

 

Let me just start by saying this is a wonderful problem to have.  Look at all that light and the pretty view into her backyard!  But I certainly understand the desire to "dress" the window.  I love the bamboo blind + curtain panels look as well and have it in almost every room in our house.  

via

There are always exceptions but in general, bamboo blinds come in a few standard widths.  Unlike other blind materials, bamboo blinds aren't easily cut to size and 105" wide blinds are definitely not a standard width. 

Emily's first question is about dressing the window with one large blind.  For the record you actually CAN get 105" blinds.  However, there are two problems with a blind this big:

1.  COST:  It would need to be custom ordered and will be expensive ($500+.)  A specialty site like The Shade Store or Smith + Noble are good sources for something like this but you can even order a custom blind from the blind section of Home Depot or Lowes. 

2.  WEIGHT:  Even if you were willing to spend that kind of money on a blind, a bamboo shade of that size will be crazy heavy.  Like you're going to need to hang off that blind cord to get it raised. 

Here's how I know this to be true.  This is our guest bedroom window.  It is 70.5" wide, ie. also not a standard blind width.  A 72" wide blind is just a bit too big (I like to inside mount all my blinds) and a 60" blind is a little too narrow.  

Rather than spring for a custom blind on this window, I decided to fake it and hide the gap left by a 60" width blind with the curtain panel. See..there's about a 4" gap between the blind and the edge of the window when you pull back the curtain. 

Here you can see what the window looks like when I pull the curtains all the way back.  It's never like this though so the gap really doesn't bother me.  And I saved myself a boatload of $.  BUT, even this 60" wide blind is very heavy to raise.  Emily's window is a whole 40" WIDER.  For that reason, I don't think a single blind is a good option. 

The alternative to 1 big blind is dressing the window in several blinds, each operating independently.  We did this in our office. 

This window is also 70.5" wide but instead of 1 large blind like we did in the guest bedroom, we have two 33.5" wide blinds. 

Visually it really doesn't look that different than a single blind but it's SOOOO much easier to operate.  And you get the same layered effect that Emily likes.  

Here's a gorgeous kitchen using the same trick. 

With her 105" wide window, three of these 34" wide bamboo blinds would work perfectly.  And the best part - her blind situation is taken care of for just over $100! 

Thanks for the question Emily!  I hope I could help even a little.  Please send pictures of your newly "dressed" window when you're done!

If you have a question or design dilemma irking you, drop me an email (address listed over on the right sidebar.)  I love a challenge and I love searching out pictures to help inspire you to tackle the issue and make your space the best it can be.